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St. Paul's Cathedral seen from the Tate Modern
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It's been a couple of months since Scott and I spent roughly ten days in jolly old England and I admit that it's more than a bit of a blur by now, what with all that has happened since by which, of course, I mean the one damned horror after another since Inauguration Day. It feels particularly absurd to be writing about tea sandwiches and Vermeers and suchlike when I should be out demonstrating in the streets, but--well--this is the day I've opted to attempt to write up the trip and that's just that.
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Heathrow selfie
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It was some time in late summer that we bought tickets and rented a place to stay (in Bowes Park) somewhat on the spur of the moment because British Airways was having a sale and we weren't really thinking about how short the days might be in late November. The experience of buying the tickets was hellish and required literally hours on the phone after their website was crap. The flight to England also left a great deal to be desired. On the other hand, the plane stayed in the air and landed safely so, really, it was
fine. We walked for what felt like miles through Heathrow, self-scanned ourselves through passport control (no passport stamps. unhappy face.), and after a few missteps (mine), found our way to the Piccadilly line tube platform. It was a longish ride from the airport to the Bounds Green station though not significantly more time-consuming than the trip from our house to SeaTac on public transportation.
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"Discover London above the Piccadilly Line"
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[It is already striking me that at this rate this post will be the length of one of
Mr Trollope's shorter novels. Hmmm.]
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Bowes Park kitchen: so cute we got over the toaster not working. |
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Bowes Park front room
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Bowes Park front room, angle 2 (Note the drying rack)
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Classic "view out the bedroom window" shot for Alex
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Our rental turned out to be notably smaller than it looked in the photos (aren't they always?) and it had some shortcomings, but after we went to the shops for toilet paper (!) and I scrubbed out the tea kettle and invested in a new box of
PG Tips, we were pretty much set. It seemed kismet when, en route to a buy toilet paper, we came across a speciality shop (
Hello Lovely) that sold bath bombs and soap not far from the rental. The charming proprietress recommended a handful of restaurants to us including
The Prince where we ate our first meal in London while still quite jet-lagged.
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I have no clear memory of what we had but it was delicious.
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The Prince's exterior
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Naturally, after the first night it all becomes a blur of museums and meals and walking and catching trains and more walking and more sightseeing and oh! so many instances of "We should come back when it's open/we have more time/we're not already exhausted." We walked
by the Tower of London and St. Paul's and
the Monument and the Globe and Westminster and Buckingham Palace and et cetera but never got back to explore inside them. Even more shocking/disappointing, perhaps, we never even got near Harrod's or Liberty's or the
Courtauld Gallery or Kew Gardens or a million other spots that you would think essential to visit. It turns out that you really can't "do" London in a handful of days, especially if you take one of those few days to go to Bath. Which we did.
On reflection, I think that gets its own post. As does the remainder of our time in London so this is all to be continued. Stay tuned!
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Christmas lights in Piccadilly or Oxford Circus. Maybe.
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Looks like a charming rental. Thanks for the view out the window! Goodness, you missed some prime spots. *I* went to the Tower, and St. Paul's, and Harrod's (& Fortnum & Mason's to boot), as well as Kew Gardens, but then, I had 14 days in London. I admit to only looking at Buckingham Palace, too, and because of a haphazard approach to guidebooks (No internet back then---HOW did people get around??), wound up at Westminster *Cathedral* instead of Westminster *Abbey*, and never managed to fit the "right" one in. Though I must say, the Cathedral (Catholic) was fabulous and I was the only tourist there. I'm looking forward to further reports of both your London adventures and the visit to Bath (been there, too!, in an earlier millennium). Glad you are finally writing up your trip!
ReplyDeleteIf only there were some way for my own blog to recognize me as me . . . I sort of feel it's foolish to include so many photos of the rental vs. the actual sights and sites, but maybe I'll offer more (often blurry) photos of Big Ben and the like in later posts, if I get to writing those. Thanks for reading and commenting! -Mary
DeleteSpencer and I just happened upon Harrods when we noticed there were a number of fancy cars with their own personal drivers hanging around waiting for their people to come out to be driven somewhere else to spend money. I said, "Oh, this is Harrod's," thinking Spencer would have no interest. But he piped up with, "What is Harrod's." I said, it was a high end department store that Princess Diana had shopped at before becoming a princess. He wanted to check it out. It was like lots of stores within one, each of a different designer. And the shoes! They were all fancy sneakers. Spencer spotted 100 pound underwear that he was tempted to buy just to say he had a pair but we had a discussion about that and he decided spending 100 pounds on underwear truly was a bad idea.
ReplyDeleteI love "Harrods as an educational experience." I'm pretty sure I visited Harrods on some earlier visits, but the high-end shop that made the most lasting impression was Liberty; I'm sure my husband at the time still has a pile of very nice fabric we bought there--alas, you weren't with us to cause us to think it through a bit more. Really, it's probably best that Scott and I largely avoided the shopping districts.
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